Saturday, April 7, 2012

Port Fairy - an historic seaside village

Strolled around Warrnambool CBD and looked at Flagstaff Hill  this morning before heading to Port Fairy, stopping at Tower Hill Reserve, nestled inside a dormant volcano, on the way.

It was very hot today and extremely windy! The predicted storm came through mid afternoon and was quickly driven out to sea by the unabating wind, so we only got a smattering of rain.The wind is still howling as I write. Think we are getting a taste of some of the wild weather they experience along this treacherous but beautiful coast! What do they say - never judge a book by its cover! - very true -especially when you are dealing with Mother Nature!

PORT FAIRY!!!! -  Whereas Warrnambool has a reconstructed 19th century coastal port as a tourist attraction at Flagstaff Hill, Port Fairy is a step back in time and is an existing, charming well preserved 19th century fishing port! Love it ! -  it has retained its old world character with lots of the original houses, buildings and shops remaining, with many architectural styles represented. In my element - lots of history surrounding me! Local bluestone (grey volcanic rock) is used in many of the buildings and structures.


WARRNAMBOOL
Flagstaff Hill is a state heritage listed precinct, incorporating Lady Bay lighthouse, Warrnambool
garrison and maritime village. The village reflects the pioneering atmosphere of an 1870s coastal
port. The Great Circle Gallery houses relics and treasures recovered from various shipwrecks.

Australia's most valuable shipwreck relic - the priceless Minton earthenware statue, the Loch Ard Peacock,
 is displayed  in the Great Circle gallery. Transported  from England to Melbourne aboard the clipper Loch Ard in1878 for display at Melbourne's Great International Exhibition of1880, the life-sized Loch Ard Peacock was washed ashore in a packing crate, just days after its namesake ran aground.
The reconstruction of the 1870 coastal port
Warrnambool Town Hall - the melding of the old and new again -
the heritage building with a colourful contemporary addition - a theme we've noticed throughout Victoria
Liebig Street is the street of  restaurants and cafes  - yummy precinct!

There are lots of lovely heritage buildings in the CBD - a very nice clean tidy town!
TOWER HILL

Looking into the huge volcano crater at Tower Hill.
The Tower Hill Reserve is Victoria's first National Park, declared in 1892
The layers of lava are evident in the rim.
The crater is a haven for wildlife thanks to the Friends of Tower Hill and volunteers.
A mob of Kangaroos were bounding around beside the road as we travelled the rim.
The hills in the centre were created by later eruptions

Looking back across the green and fertile farms to Warrnambool from the rim road of the volcano

PORT FAIRY

And where does such an interesting name herald from?  

I aimed to find out..................and discovered........

The first regular European visitors to Bass Strait were sealers from Tasmania. Around 1828 a Captain Wishart, on a sailing expedition in his cutter "Fairy" became caught in a storm  and luckily found shelter
in a little bay. At daybreak he found that he was at the mouth of a river - he called the bay "Port Fairy" after his tiny ship.

BUT THAT'S NOT ALL!......

News of this safe anchorage spread fast and two men, Penny and Reiby, established a whaling station on the island at the mouth of the river - now named Griffiths Island after John Griffiths who purchased the whaling station in 1835. The whaling station closed in 1840.

During the 1830's some of the early seamen crossed over from the island to the mainland and started to clear and cultivate the volcanic soil. They brought sheep and cattle across from Tasmania and established a permanent settlement. In 1843 James Atkinson and William Rutledge each purchased 5120 acres from the Crown at the cost of a pound per acre with the Crown requiring the buyer to establish a town and encourage settlers - called a Special Survey. Rutledge failed but Atkinson laid out his township and called it "Belfast" after his birthplace. Irish immigrants were encouraged to settle here and this strong Celtic influence is still evident in the area, in the  place names, architecture and culture. 

Atkinson ran his township of Belfast  under the tenant system where the occupier of the land would pay rent to the land owner. (Interesting that this happened!) It was something the settlers didn't like! but Atkinson was generous and the town folk benefitted from this with him providing land for public buildings for community purpose - schools, churches, the lecture hall and library - they still stand today. Atkinson died in1862, his family holding onto his lands and it wasn't until 1886 that the land became available to purchase freehold. In 1887 the residents of Belfast petitioned the Government to rename the town ......PORT FAIRY!

A busy little port for one so tiny and pretty ! Once a thriving trading port which reached it peak in the 1850's. It was recorded that 19 foreign ships and 56 coastal vessels entered the port. Exports in that year included 4,159 bales of wool, 1,773 ounces of gold and 24,340 bushels of wheat. In 1854 -56 imports were valued at 263,127 pounds and export 334,416 pounds - enormous figures for the time!

In the early days the river was very shallow and goods were transported from wharf to ship by lighter (a type of barge). In 1870 the river was extensively dredged and was navigable by quite large ships until the 1930's. The swinging basin where the ships turned around is now the yacht marina.

Today the harbour is home to an active fishing fleet, as well as home to a small fleet of pleasure craft.  

Looking across to Griffiths Island at The Passage, Port Fairy
The Passage  runs between the Southern Ocean and Port Fairy Bay between the mainland and the Island.
 Griffiths Island is  at the mouth of the river, a short bridge crosses The Passage connects it to the mainland .
The Island protects the river from the onslaught of the Southern Ocean and so provided a safe haven for the vessels in the Port at the mouth of the river.
The surf was pumping at the mouth of The Passage on the Southern Ocean side and we enjoyed watching the surf board riders catch the big waves - they had some great rides! Scary though because there was no beach, only a reef and a rocky foreshore! And it was windy, as you can see with the spray off the waves!








The Wharf and Marina are safely nestled in the mouth of the Moyne River -
Griffith Island protects the river mouth from the hammering of the Southern Ocean and gives the boats safe anchorage.
Our home for the next few days.
We are staying in a lovely spot on the river bank just near the Marina.
East Beach on Port Fairy Bay is on the other side if the road - perfect position!-  sandwiched between river and beach!

Now to have a wander around this historic little seaport.........

"Riverdale" 1852.
Built for John Mason, Captain of the Militia and a member of the first Municipal Council.

The Old Mill House
Former Joseph Goble's Flour Mill 1864
The Royal Oak
The original stained glass is still in the windows of the Star Hotel

The Star  Hotel, 1857 - it is one of four hotels remaining of the 11 licensed premises operating in 1900.

The main street of Port Fairy
The roundabouts are all made of bluestone
Library Building on the right, the Lecture Hall on the left with the bluestone wall
Left - The Lecture Hall 1881-1882. Land grant 1864 toBelfast temperance and Philharmonic Society.
Right - Library 1866-1871 Formerly Mechanics Institute
Left - originally the Post Office (now a restaurant) erected in 1865. Used as Borough Chambers from 1882-1990
Right - Star of the West Hotel, Formerly a staging point for Cobb&Co Coaches. Built with the local bluestone.

The old Post Office, now a restaurant was also built with the bluestone
 A lovely old home nestled amongst the shops in the main street 

The Belfast Emporium built of bluestone
Belfast was the original name of Port Fairy
The old building is now the Commonwealth Bank

Formerly the Port Fairy Gazette Office established in 1849
Belfast Bakery on the left - lovely architecture and still retains the original name 
French influence - the lovely Maison Marguerite, a quaint accommodation house in the main street
Formerly the Post Office 1880-1881.
Italiante Public Works Edifice



Formally the ANZ Bank 1857,  formerly Bank of Australasia
Architect Nathaniel Billing. Built of bluestone
Former Bank of Victoria 1869

"Emoh" 1844 -  erected for merchant William Rutledge

An impressive line up of towering Norfolk Pines along Gipps Street which runs along the river behind the Port
There are lots of these huge pines around town 
A nice line up at the Marina in the Moyne River! This area was the original swing basin where the ships turned around.
Port Fairy Bay lies over the tree-line.  
The boardwalk along the Port
Storm approaching!
The storm which hurried out to sea with the encouragement of the howling wind - beautiful aftermath!

Looking across the Port  -  very aesthetically pleasing!

Homes along the Moyne River 

Strolling along the  Port Fairy Bay side of the river and harbour

East Beach on Port Fairy Bay looking towards Griffiths Island
The coastline on the other side of Griffiths Island has the big surf beaches
which are fuelled by the direct onslaught of the  Southern Ocean.

Walking along East Beach

Storm at sea!
Spy the lighthouse on the tip of Griffiths Island?
No doubt the saviour of many a ship along this rough rugged coastline!
The lighthouse was built about 1859 of local bluestone. Its light travels 19 kms to sea.

Looking west along East Beach - it goes for miles!
I can feel a walk coming on in the next few days!!!!

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